From Kolhapuris to Juttis: Why Prada Can't Escape Cultural Theft Claims

The distinction between inspiration and imitation appears to be dangerously blurry, particularly for global fashion houses, which have developed an obsession with "exotic" aesthetics.

Just a few weeks ago in Milan, luxury label Prada presented its Men's Spring/Summer 2025 collection. With dreamy minimalist silhouettes and futuristic edges, surely the runway should have generated good headlines? But it was not the avant-garde tailoring or sleek designs that generated worldwide conversation. Instead, it was an image that would be all too familiar for anyone from India – the Kolhapuri chappal silhouette.

While, perhaps, there is nothing wrong with Indian craftsmanship receiving a global platform, what hurt most was the complete absence of credit. Not even a name-drop. There was no acknowledgement of the local culture or heritage. The town of Kolhapur, where generations have honed the craft of this handmade sandal, received no respectful mention.

The backlash was swift and fierce. Social media went crazy. Articles were written. Petitions circulated. It even pushed Prada to send a small team to Kolhapur, not to celebrate the artisans, but it appeared to be for quiet research after the fact. Perhaps the decision was made slightly too late.

And barely a month later it happened again.

This time it appears that Prada recognises the humble (but common in North India) Punjabi jutti. Listed on the brand's official website as "antiqued leather pumps" in a sandy tan, they look almost identical to the juttis that have been handmade for centuries across northern India. The same pointed toe. The same delicately folded flap. And the same cultural identity, now stripped of ownership and rebranded as high fashion.

People are rightfully confused. Where is the "antique" in this design? Is the phrase just a word? Or is this layout a not-so-subtle acknowledgement of the centuries-old legacy that the jutti carries – that has been passed down through generations and generations, handmade by artisans who have not once received a fashion week invitation?

Earlier this month, in the midst of the Kolhapur uproar, Prada made a statement. They admitted that the sandals were inspired by Indian handmade footwear but then immediately distanced themselves, saying that the products were still being developed and may not even be commercially released.

And yet here we are, just weeks later, with another launch that feels too similar—and still no collaboration, no acknowledgement, and no compensation for the communities whose traditions are being mined in the luxury space.

It is not about gatekeeping culture. It is about respect. It is about providing credit where credit is due – particularly when billion-dollar brands are taking design features born out of centuries of history, sadness, and heritage. Fashion is meant to be inspired, sure. But when inspiration erases origin, it no longer is homage – and starts to look a lot like theft.